Monday, 10 February 2014

La Perla Tapatía

GUADALAJARA, JALISCO – While Mérida was rocking to the sounds of Maná at the opening of the Coliseo Yucatán (, we were far to the west, in Guadalajara, Mexico’s ‘second city’, famous for mariachis, tequila, and a unique style of cuisine.

Actually, we regretted missing the Maná concert, however had booked the trip to Guadalajara months ago, during one of Interjet’s online sales, and had secured tickets via Mexico City at an extremely good price. It’s not the fastest way between Mérida and Guadalajara (that honor goes to VivaAerobus which flies nonstop in 2 ½ hours, 3 days a week) but, as you will know if you have flown Interjet, it is by far the best airline in Mexico, and the most comfortable, with seat pitch of 34”, several inches more than other airlines.  Even with a transfer in Mexico City, is still a relatively fast way to travel between the capitals of Yucatán and Jalisco.  

Although a huge metropolitan area, Guadalajara is surprisingly manageable for the visitor, with the main areas of interest being concentrated in and to the immediate west of the centro historico. Unlike Mexico City, with its frenetic pace and perpetually stressed population, Guadalajara is much more laid back, and the Tapatíos (as the city’s residents are known) generally relaxed and happy. 

From the airport in Guadalajara, it is a $300 peso taxi ride to the center of the city, not unreasonable given the relatively long distance, and the traffic can be heavy, depending on the time of day.

We chose to stay at the Hotel One Guadalajara Centro Historico, located directly on Plaza de Armas, in the heart of the city. It’s a great location, convenient for exploring the center of the city, and with excellent connections to other parts of the city using the extensive bus network.

First stop for lunch was at Kamilos 333, the best place in town for ‘Carne en su jugo’, a local specialty, which is a type of beef stew, cooked with bacon, beans and a flavorful broth, including cilantro among other ingredients. The better known Karne Garibaldi is right next door, and a fierce rivalry exists locally, however for my money, Kamilos 333 offers the better experience.

Other ‘not to be missed’ culinary delights in the city include the famous ‘Torta Ahogada’ (literally ‘drowned sandwich’) which is a crunchy baguette style pork sandwich, drenched in a tomato based sauce, and Pozole, a pork and corn soup with tomato base.

As one would expect in a city of 6 million, there is a vast selection of eating and drinking establishments, with the centro historico being well supplied. Slightly more upscale is the area centered around Avenida Chapultepec in Colonia Americana, a 30 minute walk west from centro, or a short bus or taxi ride. Wandering around, we came across York Pub, a new addition to the Chapultepec scene, which offered a moderately authentic British pub atmosphere, great service and very reasonable prices.

Tapatíos love football (soccer), and Guadalajara boasts two top teams, Chivas and Atlas, each of which play at their own dedicated stadium. Having previously attended a Chivas game at the new Estadio Omnilife, this time we chose to watch Atlas play at the 54 year old Estadio Jalisco, which we found to be much more atmospheric than the newer and fancier facility used by Chivas. It’s also much easier to access, being only a few kilometers north of the center, on the route of the Macrobus.

An interesting side trip is the city of Zapopan, immediately to the north of Guadalajara, and part of the same metropolitan area. Accessible via the comfortable TUR bus service, for $12 pesos per person, Zapopan is best known for being the home of the Virgin of Zapopan, an image of the Virgin Mary, dating from the 16th century, which has been credited with a number of miracles, and which is to be found at the basilica.

Less famous, but our main reason for visiting, are the seafood restaurants, offering fish and seafood brought fresh daily from the pacific ports. Fresh oysters and patas de mula (a type of black clam) are an excellent choice, and at $70 pesos for a dozen, reasonably priced.

The weather at this time of year could not be better – warm and sunny in the daytime, with highs around 29°c / 85°f, and overnight lows a cool 6°c / 43°f. Rain is virtually unknown during the winter.

If you fancy a big city experience, but can’t face Mexico City, then look further west to Guadalajara – La Perla Tapatía – it may be just what you are looking for.


We travelled with Interjet (, with service from Mérida, via Mexico City. Sign up for their email alerts, and watch out for a sale! If you prefer to fly nonstop, and don’t mind the cattle car style of service, there is a nonstop flight three times a week with VivaAerobus (

We stayed at the Hotel One Guadalajara Centro Historico, part of Mexico’s Grupo Posadas hospitality group. We found it clean, quiet, comfortable and excellently located. A basic breakfast and high speed WIFI are included in all rates. Rooms on the front have a view across Plaza de Armas and the Cathedral.

Kamillos 333 is located at Jose Clemente Orozco 333, in the ‘Santa Tere’ neighborhood. Details on their website: or via Facebook:

York Pub is located at Chapultepec 179, in Colonia Americana. Details on their Facebook page:

For more general tourist information, check Visit Mexico’s website:

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